So many of us look towards Roots, herbs and plants for natural organic healing, that often times Weeds are overlooked. Here are 10 Weeds That heal. These are some great ones & uses we had not seen or heard of before. Pass it along to your friends
(pic from Castaway) – An emaciated man whose boat washed up on the shores of the Pacific’s Marshall Islands is reportedly telling a harrowing tale of being adrift for 16 months, surviving on fish, birds, and turtle blood.
The man—who only speaks Spanish—says he drifted more than 8,000 miles in his 24-foot fiberglass boat, after leaving Mexico for El Salvador in September 2012, the AFP reports. He had been traveling with a companion who he says died at sea several months ago.
Think you could have survived?
Full Story here: http://www.foxnews.com/world/2014/01/31/man-washed-up-on-boat-on-marshall-islands-says-been-adrift-16-months/
It is possible to take great pictures when hiking solo with a mobile phone without the hassle of using timers. The method is called “Film and Grab”, where video is taken of a moment and then from any portion of the film a single frame can be used as a picture.
NO TIMERS! You heard me!
It’s really simple.
Requirments (2):
iPhone or Andriod Smartphone Device
One of the following applications that can grab video frames
The following applications are just a few of the options that are available on the marketplace that can be used:
Android: AndroVidAndroVid can be purchased off the Google “Play” application market. The free version will allow you to do all the operations required to select any image as a photo from a video, Pro will gives you additional features.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.androvidApple: Video 2 PhotoVideo 2 Photo allows you to export one or more high quality photos from your videos on your apple device.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/video-2-photo-extract-still/id487353844?mt=8
How It’s Done
Step One: Set up your Camera
One of the most common methods I use to set up my camera in the back country is to attach my phone to one of my trekking poles using a hair-tie or rubber band. However, you can set your phone up on any improvised set up.
Get innovative to achieve the angle you want, sometimes I’ll lean my phone against a rock, stick, or up in the branches of a tree. Get creative but be careful with your device!
In this picture I rest my camera above me towards the top of the fire tower and place a small amount of weight on the phone to keep it from teetering off. Get creative on how you set up your camera but be careful with your device!
Step Two: Take the Video
Click record and show the world what you do! Remember that you can choose any frame from the video that you are filming, so if you are looking for the perfect picture don’t forget to give your video some variety. You may thank yourself later!Tips:
-Set the screen brightness on low to help conserve battery
-Check the cameras resolution settings, the higher the resolution the more space the video will take up. Make sure you have enough space available for the video before you go live your moment.
Step Three: Use the Application
Follow your applications directions for grabbing a photo from the video. The following example is for Android devices using AndroVid.
1. Go to the device’s gallery and find the video taken.
2. Click the video and the phone will prompt about the different applications that you can choose to open it. Choose AndroVid.
3.In AndroVid, on the top tool bar, click the camera image that says “Grab”.
4. Search the video for the desired frame for the picture. Click the camera icon on the top right to grab the image.
5. Save the image, directly upload it, or open up the new image in a different program for further processing.
Tips:
-If battery conservation is important while traveling you can choose to select your photos later when the time is more appropriate.
-Low on storage space? After you retrieve the picture from the video you can delete the video to create more available space.
Clipping of an old Fashioned Ketchup Recipe we thought you might like
Old-Fashioned Ketchup
48 medium tomatoes (8 lbs.), peeled
2 ripe red peppers, chopped
2 sweet green peppers, chopped
4 onions, chopped
3 c. white vinegar
3 c. sugar
3 T. salt
1 1/2 tsp. cloves
1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp. allspice
3 tsp. ground dry mustard
1/2 tsp. hot red peppers
Boil tomatoes, peppers and onions until tender. Run through sieve or strainer. Add remaining ingredients. Boil until thick and pour into jars.
Here’s a slightly different version we found too, let us know if you try making either!
In this discussion of lightweight shelters we will be looking at 5 basic shelter options for use in back country travel and discuss some of the advantages and drawbacks of each system in terms of protection they provide.
The scope of the shelter systems we will inspect are:
No Shelter, Water Resistant Breathable Bivy, Waterproof Breathable Bivy, Open Tarp, and the Mid Tarp.
With each option we will be discussing the attributes of each shelter system in terms of its protection from dew, wind, rain, snow, and insects.
Brief Introduction to the Shelter Systems
The following are brief introductions to the shelter systems discussed:
Water Resistant Breathable and Waterproof Breathable Bivy SacksA bivy sack is an extremely small and lightweight shelter that can be used as an alternative to a tarp or tent for a shelter. What makes it water resistant or waterproof is the fabric that it is constructed with. Waterproof bivy sacks, even with the advance of waterproof/breathable fabrics like Gore-Tex and E-Vent, are less breathable than water resistant bivy sacks due the different fabrics they are made of. In result, waterproof bivy sacks can commonly become uncomfortable and moist inside.
Open Tarps
Open Tarps are simple shelters commonly rigged with hiking poles, tent pegs, and guy lines. They come in many designs, from simple rectangle pieces of nylon or plastic to more elaborate shaped cuts made with extremely lightweight and durable fabrics such as cuben fiber. They typically are floorless, though ground sheets are commonly used to keep occupants off bare ground.
Mid Tarps
Mid tarps are similar to open tarps in the way they are rigged, however their design creates a full enclosure with a small gap at the bottom for ventilation.
Dew
Unless you break camp early enough to escape, morning dew is going to fall upon your shelter system.
The following chart provides a breakdown of protection that each shelter system provides against dew in a five point rating system.
No Shelter- Without any protection, dew may be strong enough to soak a sleeping bag which can cause it to lose its loft and warmth. If there is no time to dry it out the accumulative effects over a couple days may wreck havoc to a sleeping system. If dew is a concern a synthetic bag during good weather may be a better suited option when traveling without a shelter.
Water Resistant Breathable Bivy- Because the fabric is not fully waterproof heavy dew is still likely to soak through the permeable fabric, yet it provides more protection than having nothing.
WPB Bivy, Open Tarps, Mid Tarp- The remaining shelter systems offer full protection from dew.
Inclement Conditions
During inclement conditions it is important to be prepared with adequate shelter. The three conditions we will be discussing are wind, rain, and snow.
The following chart shows a breakdown of the protection that each shelter system provides against these conditions in a five point rating system.
No Shelter– Having no shelter provides little protection from inclement conditions. However, the study of wilderness survival skills can help mitigate risk and provide shelter as adequate as the skills, tools, time, and materials that are available to an individual or group.
Water Resistant Breathable Bivy– Provides slightly more protection than no shelter. It is a popular option to combine a WRB Bivy with an open tarp to create a more adequate shelter system.
Waterpoof Breathable Bivy– Although WRB Bivy provides better protection from wind and rain, during a snow storm they are subjected to snow loading. Snow loading is the accumulation of snow on a shelter which can affect the integrity of the shelter. With both WRB and WPB bivy sacks the snow accumulation can compresses the insulation in a sleeping bag which will result in a loss of warmth.
Open Tarps- When analyzing the adequacy of open tarps in inclement conditions it is important to note that protection depends on how and where the tarp is pitched. Understanding campsite selection techniques may increase the ability of an open tarp to provide protection in these conditions. Remember in most situations open tarps will usually have at least one or more open faces to the wind. Open tarps are also subject to snow loading because the structure lacks support. Snow loading can warp the tarps structure and possibly lead to seam failure.
This photo is an example of an open tarp. In inclement conditions one or more sides can be directly staked to the ground to provide more protection in a storm.Mid Tarps- Mid tarps provide the most protection in inclement conditions. This is attributed to its design which creates a full perimeter shelter that has no open sides which gives great protection from wind and rain. Mid tarps also handle snow well because it doesn’t accumulate and instead rolls off the tarps steep sides and accumulates around the perimeter.
Insect Protection
Those who have protection from bugs remain sane.
The following chart shows a breakdown of the protection that each shelter system provides against insects in a five point rating system.
No Shelter– Very little protection from bugs without a shelter. However, during cold seasons bugs may not be an issue.
WRB Bivy and WPB Bivy– As long as the bivy is closed it provides excellent insect protection.
Open Tarps- Open tarps by themselves offer very little insect protection. However, open tarps can have no-see-um mesh sewn around the perimeter that can provide adequate protection from bugs. The mesh can also bring small gains in rain protection as droplets accumulate in the lining.
Mid Tarps– Although the bottom of a Mid tarp remains open allowing crawlers open access, the mid tarp provides better protection from flying bugs because the tarp has no open sides. Additionally, flying bugs may seek warmth which gathers towards the top of the tarp, remaining out of the area of the occupant. Mid tarps can also be paired with no-see-um mesh which will increase its bug protection.
Conclusion
Many of the shelters discussed can be less than one pound and smaller than a large water bottle.
But what shelter provides the most protection? It may depend.
Displayed in the chart below are the averages from each of the ratings that each shelter was given from above.
No Shelter– Having no shelter provides very little protection but has the lowest weight. Carrying no shelter is ideally suited for experienced travelers in good weather when the objective is to keep pack weight at the maximum minimum.
WRB Bivy– Provides more protection in inclement conditions than not having a shelter and provides excellent protection against bugs. A popular option is to pair a WRB bivy with an open tarp to create more adequate protection from dew, wind, and rain.
WPB Bivy– Provides greater protection against dew, wind, and rain than a WRB Bivy but may carry additional drawbacks. Waterproof breathable fabrics such as Gore-tex have come a long way but still lack adequate protection against condensation. You may be dry from the rain, but inside the bivy you may find that condensation and sweat can build up and dampen your bag internally and lead to uncomfortable sleeping conditions. Additionally, bivys provide little in respect to livability.
Open Tarps– Open tarps create the most debate about its adequacy of protection. When dealing with open tarps outdoor experience plays a major role in how the shelter will serve. Open tarps allow flexibility in the ways it can be pitched to accommodate different scenarios. With the addition of mesh lining around the perimeter, the tarp can supply adequate bug protection. When combined with a WRB bivy its protection can be strengthened against wind, rain, and bugs.
Mid Tarp– Receiving the best overall rating, mid tarps provide a wide variety of benefits when compared to other light weight shelter options. It has great performance against dew, wind, rain, and bugs. When encountering snow it is the only shelter analyzed that doesn’t succumb to snow loading due to a steep wall design. Mid tarps are a common shelter system used by a wide variety of the world’s most influential lightweight backpackers.
Scrambled Eggs in the Shell?
We thought this was a really cool and unique trick! While this may not be very practical it is a really neat trick & fun to do. Not exactly really “scrambled” but it’s still neat. A great way to enjoy an Egg snack on the go, that’s a bit different from the standard hard boiled egg. Share this if you think it’s neat!
It’s winter, and it’s snowing all over the country. One of my nearest and dearest memories childhood memories was rushing outside and scooping up a bunch of fresh snow, to make Snow Cream! If you’ve never made it before, you’re in for a serious treat, and the kids will love it as well. It’s quick & easy to make. So enjoy the snow!
Snow Cream Recipe:
1 gallon or big bowl full of CLEAN snow (leave it fluffy don’t pack it in)
1 cup sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup cream or milk
Just mix the ingredients together, then add the snow and stir until it’s soft and of ice cream consitency
For Chocolate Snow Cream substitute Regular Milk with Chocolate Milk
I have made a career responding to all manner of disasters and emergencies. This has included earthquakes, hurricanes, floods, wildfires, and search, rescue, & recovery. Over time, I have also been involved in a few events as a victim. I think having seen both sides of these things gives me an interesting take on survival preparedness.
The most common activation I receive is to respond to a wildfire. And while this might be a short term event, over almost before it begins, the results can be devastating to the unprepared. So I would like to discuss how to prepare for a wildfire. Since this is such a large topic, I am going to limit myself to steps you can take to defend your home, or BOL (Bug-Out-Location.)
To many homeowners, the idea of a wildfire is pretty overwhelming. It can be a huge dominating force of nature that seems like there is no way to prepare for or hold out against.
It can seem that a raging forest fire is simply too large, too fierce, and too unpredictable to deal with. But I believe there are ways to reduce the threat, and make your home much safer. You can take decisive action before, during, and after a wildfire to preserve and protect what’s yours.
The first things you should consider are items you can work on before there is a fire event. Many of the things I will mention are detailed on www.firewise.org, which is a very well known and respected program the Federal Forest Service sponsored. I will duplicate some of their advice, but you should still check them out to see what else they have to offer. You might have seen on the news where an entire community is ravaged by a large fire, but certain homes remain untouched. It could seem that this is pure chance, or luck of the draw, but that isn’t completely true. There is a science to making your home more fire resistant. (I hesitate to say fire proof, because unfortunately, in extreme conditions, sometimes your best efforts might still be in vain.)
The first and primary step is to consider something called “defensible space.” How much of a break is there between the forest and undergrowth, and your home? If your home sits with rank vegetation chest high, all the way within 2 feet, then you are in more danger than someone with a manicured lawn out to the recommended 100 feet. Next, examine your home construction. If you have a wooden roof, what we used to call shaker shingles, then you will be much more flammable than a metal, or tile roof. But even a metal roof can be compromised by debris like pine needles, and leaf litter. If you have gutters, clean them out minimally yearly, right at the end of winter, and any time they fill with pine needles and burnable litter. Third, consider what else in the yard might carry fire. When you pick your landscaping, choose trees like Oaks over more flammable trees like Pines, and Palm trees. Even shrubs can make a huge difference. Many people love clumps of Saw Palmetto in their yard, but it is known to be high in volatile oils. Much better to have a similar looking plant like a Cycad, (Namia for example,) which is a lot less flammable. Also look at any vehicles you might be leaving behind, and don’t park them right against the house. If the boat or truck does catch fire, better to lose that one item than to have it impinge the whole home.
So, you have done your best with “before”. You hear that a large fire is growing downwind of your home. The house is prepped, your important papers are copied to a thumb drive. The car is packed. Even though the fire is not technically within sight, just the fact that it exists and is threatening means that your next actions are what I would call “during” the fire event. Now, I do not recommend that anyone ignore an evacuation order to take further preparation steps. But sometimes, you know the fire is coming, and have an hour or two left before you have to leave. Often in the western states, you may know days in advance. You must consider how easy to get away from your home it is. If you live on a narrow mountain road, overgrown with trees, leave early. You might have to move a downed limb, or go around an obstacle.
But if you do have time, use it calmly and wisely. Many times I see folks out spraying their yard or roof with water hoses to wet them down before the fire gets there.
Unfortunately, due to the extreme heat pushed ahead of a large fire, this doesn’t often do any good. The preheating from the fire, caused by hot dry winds, simply evaporates this water, and the fire does what it wants regardless. So what can you do that would have impact on the fire? First, be sure you have closed all the windows. Seal any openings that would let an ember get into your home. Next, look again at the yard. IF YOU HAVE TIME, and if it needs it, mow the yard again. This sounds silly, but consider this: Flame length is usually 2 to 3 times the height of what is burning. Since you have kept the woods themselves 100 feet away, is your grass tall?
Very short lawns may not carry a fire at all, but if they do, then the 1” grass should give up to a 3” flame. Or in unkempt lots, 2 foot grass will probably give a 6 foot flame. Which do you want licking the sides of your home, 3 inch flames or 6 foot flames? Next, continue focusing on the yard. If there is a propane grill, don’t leave it against your home. Move it out to the most bare clearing you can away from any vehicles. Leave the propane tank out of any building. (Firefighters will appreciate being able to see it and identify it as a hazard.) In fact, if you have flagging tape, tie some to the grill.
Finally, go back through the house, use a checklist to make sure you have everything you can not replace, and can transport. Now I listed a bunch of stuff to do, but most important is that you leave in time to get away easily. It might be prudent to send the family on ahead, and take care of those things you have time for, then follow them. Nothing in what I write is intended to tell you to stay when it is unsafe, or will become unsafe before you can get away. Follow any evacuation plans your local fire agency publishes.
Now the fire has gone. You are headed back into your home. What should you be doing? First, understand that wildfires can cause lingering hazards. Trees may fall completely, or just limbs might fall off of otherwise healthy trees. The baked soil might be loose and more likely to give way, so you might see rolling rocks, mudslides, or have banks give way that were safe before. This process can occur weeks and months after the fire has passed through.
As you begin cleaning the yard, be aware of any impacted trees, and go ahead and have them removed. A final consideration, light, flashy fuels can “reburn”. The fire moves very quickly across the surface of the fuel, but leave behind stuff that can still catch fire again later. Especially true of this are pine trees. Scorched needles will fall within a few days, and provide a blanket of burnable fuel on the ground.
So if you live in such an area, rake the needle drop away from your home and structures. And revisit the Firewise website I mentioned above. As you replace your plants, do it in a way that makes your home safer and safer.
Next time, I will speak to strategies if you are away from home, in the woods, and encounter a wildfire.
Pretty simple little rough guideline to help you tell if you have a cold that you’ll get over soon, or the Flu where you’ll be down for the count for awhile and probably need to see a doctor
When modern medicine is not available, or if you just choose to live a all natural self sufficient life style it’s important to know and understand what natural remedies out there can do for you. Medicinal Herbs have been in use for thousand of years and are renowned for their effectiveness. This is just the tip of the iceberg, we plan on covering natural healing, herbs, and natural medicine extensively. So stay tuned and visit the site often.
As always please Like, Share & Pin to help others
. He had been traveling with a companion who he says died at sea several months ago.
Think you could have survived?
Full Story here: http://www.foxnews.com/world/2014/01/31/man-washed-up-on-boat-on-marshall-islands-says-been-adrift-16-months/ 
. He had been traveling with a companion who he says died at sea several months ago.
Think you could have survived?
Full Story here: http://www.foxnews.com/world/2014/01/31/man-washed-up-on-boat-on-marshall-islands-says-been-adrift-16-months/ 
AndroVid can be purchased off the Google “Play” application market. The free version will allow you to do all the operations required to select any image as a photo from a video, Pro will gives you additional features.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.androvid
Apple: Video 2 Photo
Video 2 Photo allows you to export one or more high quality photos from your videos on your apple device.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/video-2-photo-extract-still/id487353844?mt=8
Tips:
-Set the screen brightness on low to help conserve battery
-Check the cameras resolution settings, the higher the resolution the more space the video will take up. Make sure you have enough space available for the video before you go live your moment.
3.In AndroVid, on the top tool bar, click the camera image that says “Grab”.
AndroVid can be purchased off the Google “Play” application market. The free version will allow you to do all the operations required to select any image as a photo from a video, Pro will gives you additional features.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.androvid
Apple: Video 2 Photo
Video 2 Photo allows you to export one or more high quality photos from your videos on your apple device.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/video-2-photo-extract-still/id487353844?mt=8
Tips:
-Set the screen brightness on low to help conserve battery
-Check the cameras resolution settings, the higher the resolution the more space the video will take up. Make sure you have enough space available for the video before you go live your moment.
3.In AndroVid, on the top tool bar, click the camera image that says “Grab”.
Here’s a slightly different version we found too, let us know if you try making either!
Here’s a slightly different version we found too, let us know if you try making either!
In this discussion of lightweight shelters we will be looking at 5 basic shelter options for use in back country travel and discuss some of the advantages and drawbacks of each system in terms of protection they provide.
The scope of the shelter systems we will inspect are:
No Shelter, Water Resistant Breathable Bivy, Waterproof Breathable Bivy, Open Tarp, and the Mid Tarp.
With each option we will be discussing the attributes of each shelter system in terms of its protection from dew, wind, rain, snow, and insects.
A bivy sack is an extremely small and lightweight shelter that can be used as an alternative to a tarp or tent for a shelter. What makes it water resistant or waterproof is the fabric that it is constructed with. Waterproof bivy sacks, even with the advance of waterproof/breathable fabrics like Gore-Tex and E-Vent, are less breathable than water resistant bivy sacks due the different fabrics they are made of. In result, waterproof bivy sacks can commonly become uncomfortable and moist inside.
Open Tarps
Open Tarps are simple shelters commonly rigged with hiking poles, tent pegs, and guy lines. They come in many designs, from simple rectangle pieces of nylon or plastic to more elaborate shaped cuts made with extremely lightweight and durable fabrics such as cuben fiber. They typically are floorless, though ground sheets are commonly used to keep occupants off bare ground.
Mid Tarps
Mid tarps are similar to open tarps in the way they are rigged, however their design creates a full enclosure with a small gap at the bottom for ventilation.
No Shelter- Without any protection, dew may be strong enough to soak a sleeping bag which can cause it to lose its loft and warmth. If there is no time to dry it out the accumulative effects over a couple days may wreck havoc to a sleeping system. If dew is a concern a synthetic bag during good weather may be a better suited option when traveling without a shelter.
No Shelter– Having no shelter provides little protection from inclement conditions. However, the study of wilderness survival skills can help mitigate risk and provide shelter as adequate as the skills, tools, time, and materials that are available to an individual or group.
Water Resistant Breathable Bivy– Provides slightly more protection than no shelter. It is a popular option to combine a WRB Bivy with an open tarp to create a more adequate shelter system.
Waterpoof Breathable Bivy– Although WRB Bivy provides better protection from wind and rain, during a snow storm they are subjected to snow loading. Snow loading is the accumulation of snow on a shelter which can affect the integrity of the shelter. With both WRB and WPB bivy sacks the snow accumulation can compresses the insulation in a sleeping bag which will result in a loss of warmth.
Open Tarps- When analyzing the adequacy of open tarps in inclement conditions it is important to note that protection depends on how and where the tarp is pitched. Understanding campsite selection techniques may increase the ability of an open tarp to provide protection in these conditions. Remember in most situations open tarps will usually have at least one or more open faces to the wind. Open tarps are also subject to snow loading because the structure lacks support. Snow loading can warp the tarps structure and possibly lead to seam failure.
No Shelter– Very little protection from bugs without a shelter. However, during cold seasons bugs may not be an issue.
WRB Bivy and WPB Bivy– As long as the bivy is closed it provides excellent insect protection.
Open Tarps- Open tarps by themselves offer very little insect protection. However, open tarps can have no-see-um mesh sewn around the perimeter that can provide adequate protection from bugs. The mesh can also bring small gains in rain protection as droplets accumulate in the lining.
Mid Tarps– Although the bottom of a Mid tarp remains open allowing crawlers open access, the mid tarp provides better protection from flying bugs because the tarp has no open sides. Additionally, flying bugs may seek warmth which gathers towards the top of the tarp, remaining out of the area of the occupant. Mid tarps can also be paired with no-see-um mesh which will increase its bug protection.
Many of the shelters discussed can be less than one pound and smaller than a large water bottle.
But what shelter provides the most protection? It may depend.
Displayed in the chart below are the averages from each of the ratings that each shelter was given from above.
No Shelter– Having no shelter provides very little protection but has the lowest weight. Carrying no shelter is ideally suited for experienced travelers in good weather when the objective is to keep pack weight at the maximum minimum.
WRB Bivy– Provides more protection in inclement conditions than not having a shelter and provides excellent protection against bugs. A popular option is to pair a WRB bivy with an open tarp to create more adequate protection from dew, wind, and rain.
WPB Bivy– Provides greater protection against dew, wind, and rain than a WRB Bivy but may carry additional drawbacks. Waterproof breathable fabrics such as Gore-tex have come a long way but still lack adequate protection against condensation. You may be dry from the rain, but inside the bivy you may find that condensation and sweat can build up and dampen your bag internally and lead to uncomfortable sleeping conditions. Additionally, bivys provide little in respect to livability.
Open Tarps– Open tarps create the most debate about its adequacy of protection. When dealing with open tarps outdoor experience plays a major role in how the shelter will serve. Open tarps allow flexibility in the ways it can be pitched to accommodate different scenarios. With the addition of mesh lining around the perimeter, the tarp can supply adequate bug protection. When combined with a WRB bivy its protection can be strengthened against wind, rain, and bugs.
Mid Tarp– Receiving the best overall rating, mid tarps provide a wide variety of benefits when compared to other light weight shelter options. It has great performance against dew, wind, rain, and bugs. When encountering snow it is the only shelter analyzed that doesn’t succumb to snow loading due to a steep wall design. Mid tarps are a common shelter system used by a wide variety of the world’s most influential lightweight backpackers.
Snow Cream Recipe:
Snow Cream Recipe:
It can seem that a raging forest fire is simply too large, too fierce, and too unpredictable to deal with. But I believe there are ways to reduce the threat, and make your home much safer. You can take decisive action before, during, and after a wildfire to preserve and protect what’s yours.
The first things you should consider are items you can work on before there is a fire event. Many of the things I will mention are detailed on www.firewise.org, which is a very well known and respected program the Federal Forest Service sponsored. I will duplicate some of their advice, but you should still check them out to see what else they have to offer. You might have seen on the news where an entire community is ravaged by a large fire, but certain homes remain untouched. It could seem that this is pure chance, or luck of the draw, but that isn’t completely true. There is a science to making your home more fire resistant. (I hesitate to say fire proof, because unfortunately, in extreme conditions, sometimes your best efforts might still be in vain.)
The first and primary step is to consider something called “defensible space.” How much of a break is there between the forest and undergrowth, and your home? If your home sits with rank vegetation chest high, all the way within 2 feet, then you are in more danger than someone with a manicured lawn out to the recommended 100 feet. Next, examine your home construction. If you have a wooden roof, what we used to call shaker shingles, then you will be much more flammable than a metal, or tile roof. But even a metal roof can be compromised by debris like pine needles, and leaf litter. If you have gutters, clean them out minimally yearly, right at the end of winter, and any time they fill with pine needles and burnable litter. Third, consider what else in the yard might carry fire. When you pick your landscaping, choose trees like Oaks over more flammable trees like Pines, and Palm trees. Even shrubs can make a huge difference. Many people love clumps of Saw Palmetto in their yard, but it is known to be high in volatile oils. Much better to have a similar looking plant like a Cycad, (Namia for example,) which is a lot less flammable. Also look at any vehicles you might be leaving behind, and don’t park them right against the house. If the boat or truck does catch fire, better to lose that one item than to have it impinge the whole home.
So, you have done your best with “before”. You hear that a large fire is growing downwind of your home. The house is prepped, your important papers are copied to a thumb drive. The car is packed. Even though the fire is not technically within sight, just the fact that it exists and is threatening means that your next actions are what I would call “during” the fire event. Now, I do not recommend that anyone ignore an evacuation order to take further preparation steps. But sometimes, you know the fire is coming, and have an hour or two left before you have to leave. Often in the western states, you may know days in advance. You must consider how easy to get away from your home it is. If you live on a narrow mountain road, overgrown with trees, leave early. You might have to move a downed limb, or go around an obstacle.
As you begin cleaning the yard, be aware of any impacted trees, and go ahead and have them removed. A final consideration, light, flashy fuels can “reburn”. The fire moves very quickly across the surface of the fuel, but leave behind stuff that can still catch fire again later. Especially true of this are pine trees. Scorched needles will fall within a few days, and provide a blanket of burnable fuel on the ground.
It can seem that a raging forest fire is simply too large, too fierce, and too unpredictable to deal with. But I believe there are ways to reduce the threat, and make your home much safer. You can take decisive action before, during, and after a wildfire to preserve and protect what’s yours.
The first things you should consider are items you can work on before there is a fire event. Many of the things I will mention are detailed on www.firewise.org, which is a very well known and respected program the Federal Forest Service sponsored. I will duplicate some of their advice, but you should still check them out to see what else they have to offer. You might have seen on the news where an entire community is ravaged by a large fire, but certain homes remain untouched. It could seem that this is pure chance, or luck of the draw, but that isn’t completely true. There is a science to making your home more fire resistant. (I hesitate to say fire proof, because unfortunately, in extreme conditions, sometimes your best efforts might still be in vain.)
The first and primary step is to consider something called “defensible space.” How much of a break is there between the forest and undergrowth, and your home? If your home sits with rank vegetation chest high, all the way within 2 feet, then you are in more danger than someone with a manicured lawn out to the recommended 100 feet. Next, examine your home construction. If you have a wooden roof, what we used to call shaker shingles, then you will be much more flammable than a metal, or tile roof. But even a metal roof can be compromised by debris like pine needles, and leaf litter. If you have gutters, clean them out minimally yearly, right at the end of winter, and any time they fill with pine needles and burnable litter. Third, consider what else in the yard might carry fire. When you pick your landscaping, choose trees like Oaks over more flammable trees like Pines, and Palm trees. Even shrubs can make a huge difference. Many people love clumps of Saw Palmetto in their yard, but it is known to be high in volatile oils. Much better to have a similar looking plant like a Cycad, (Namia for example,) which is a lot less flammable. Also look at any vehicles you might be leaving behind, and don’t park them right against the house. If the boat or truck does catch fire, better to lose that one item than to have it impinge the whole home.
So, you have done your best with “before”. You hear that a large fire is growing downwind of your home. The house is prepped, your important papers are copied to a thumb drive. The car is packed. Even though the fire is not technically within sight, just the fact that it exists and is threatening means that your next actions are what I would call “during” the fire event. Now, I do not recommend that anyone ignore an evacuation order to take further preparation steps. But sometimes, you know the fire is coming, and have an hour or two left before you have to leave. Often in the western states, you may know days in advance. You must consider how easy to get away from your home it is. If you live on a narrow mountain road, overgrown with trees, leave early. You might have to move a downed limb, or go around an obstacle.
But if you do have time, use it calmly and wisely. Many times I see folks out spraying their yard or roof with water hoses to wet them down before the fire gets there.
Unfortunately, due to the extreme heat pushed ahead of a large fire, this doesn’t often do any good. The preheating from the fire, caused by hot dry winds, simply evaporates this water, and the fire does what it wants regardless. So what can you do that would have impact on the fire? First, be sure you have closed all the windows. Seal any openings that would let an ember get into your home. Next, look again at the yard. IF YOU HAVE TIME, and if it needs it, mow the yard again. This sounds silly, but consider this: Flame length is usually 2 to 3 times the height of what is burning. Since you have kept the woods themselves 100 feet away, is your grass tall?
Very short lawns may not carry a fire at all, but if they do, then the 1” grass should give up to a 3” flame. Or in unkempt lots, 2 foot grass will probably give a 6 foot flame. Which do you want licking the sides of your home, 3 inch flames or 6 foot flames? Next, continue focusing on the yard. If there is a propane grill, don’t leave it against your home. Move it out to the most bare clearing you can away from any vehicles. Leave the propane tank out of any building. (Firefighters will appreciate being able to see it and identify it as a hazard.) In fact, if you have flagging tape, tie some to the grill.
Finally, go back through the house, use a checklist to make sure you have everything you can not replace, and can transport. Now I listed a bunch of stuff to do, but most important is that you leave in time to get away easily. It might be prudent to send the family on ahead, and take care of those things you have time for, then follow them. Nothing in what I write is intended to tell you to stay when it is unsafe, or will become unsafe before you can get away. Follow any evacuation plans your local fire agency publishes.
Now the fire has gone. You are headed back into your home. What should you be doing? First, understand that wildfires can cause lingering hazards. Trees may fall completely, or just limbs might fall off of otherwise healthy trees. The baked soil might be loose and more likely to give way, so you might see rolling rocks, mudslides, or have banks give way that were safe before. This process can occur weeks and months after the fire has passed through.
As you begin cleaning the yard, be aware of any impacted trees, and go ahead and have them removed. A final consideration, light, flashy fuels can “reburn”. The fire moves very quickly across the surface of the fuel, but leave behind stuff that can still catch fire again later. Especially true of this are pine trees. Scorched needles will fall within a few days, and provide a blanket of burnable fuel on the ground.
So if you live in such an area, rake the needle drop away from your home and structures. And revisit the Firewise website I mentioned above. As you replace your plants, do it in a way that makes your home safer and safer.
Next time, I will speak to strategies if you are away from home, in the woods, and encounter a wildfire. 
